Goroka Festival : A Unique Cultural Mosaic!

Less than half a century ago, Papua New Guinea gained independence. This year, more than last year (when we were still suffering from the effects of Covid), we can feel that the entire nation is eager to celebrate the moment. Most of our Papua New Guinean colleagues were not born in 1975. They make up the first generation after independence, but they know, through their parents who have probably told the stories many times, what the transition was like for their country, from Australian occupation to full autonomy.

Shaun and I. Departure for 3 days in Goroka, Eastern Highlands

September 16, 2023

Jackson Airport, Port Moresby

From an island land inhabited by a multitude of tribes speaking different languages (over 800 languages are still spoken today in Papua New Guinea), the young nation was now entering the ranks of autonomous nations. Distinctive outfits, masks, and the iconic colors of the flag—yellow, red, and black—predominate everywhere, especially on shirts and meri blouses. The song "One nation, one country" is sung tirelessly with powerful emotion and palpable joy, through popular songs that celebrate the national pride of this complex and diverse country, which is in a perpetual search for the path toward unity.

With Shaun, who works in Finance, our friendship was born from our shared passion for forest walking in Varirata Park. After several outings together, the idea of attending the Goroka festival, an annual gathering of many tribes from all over the country, has been growing in my mind for a few weeks now.

Goroka is the capital of the Eastern Highlands province. It is part of that region of PNG commonly known as the Highlands, located at the heart of the country.

Far from the hills, beaches, and humid forests that characterize the coastal regions (where Port Moresby is located), the Highlands present a landscape of mountains and valleys, home to a large number of tribes whose main activity is dynamic agriculture, producing high-quality fruits and vegetables.

It is in this remote corner of Papua New Guinea that every year, during the national celebration, tourists and curious onlookers gather to witness a unique demonstration of cultural diversity that is absolutely incredible.

Shaun and I with a resident of a village in the immediate vicinity of Goroka

From costumes to dances, masks, and accessories, it is a vast array of customs and traditions that unfolds before the amazed eyes of visitors from another world (21st-century Western society), who clearly can’t believe their eyes!

Shaun kindly agrees to accompany me, and we manage to find accommodation thanks to the family of a colleague who lives there. This promises to be an intense cultural immersion for me, and I am already looking forward to it. I won’t be disappointed.

Departure for Goroka, capital of the Eastern Highlands province

Just after stepping off the plane and being driven by our host Herick through the whirlwind of a city that, at this time of year, is no longer the quiet capital it usually is, we are thrust into the colorful and boisterous atmosphere of the event.

Once we reach the field, where a staggering number of people are gathered—each dressed in the traditional attire of their respective tribes—we are overwhelmed on all sides by feathers, blades, primitive instruments, and a mix of chants and shouts (depending on the moment!).

Before our eyes unfolds a rare juxtaposition of cultural expressions. Every detail of the costumes, every language, every rhythm of dance sets them apart—but all are united in the celebration of a single Melanesian culture that, after a few hours of taking it in, begins to reveal its flavor.

The day ends with a gathering of festival-goers on the neighboring field. With Shaun and his friend John, whom he had reunited with earlier, I can confidently lose myself in the crowd—even if my skin color doesn’t exactly go unnoticed.

At first glance, the faces I pass may seem stern or distant, but a genuine, heartfelt smile soon emerges when we manage to exchange a few words in the dominant local language I’ve only just begun to learn.

This is the moment when the true fabric of Papua New Guinea’s society reveals itself. The warmth of its people is unmistakable.

Strangers become friends with a single smile, shared laughter, and spontaneous embraces. The pride in their culture shines through every gesture, every dance, every expression.

The following day, we explore the surroundings of Goroka, including its university and its impressive library. As we continue our drive, my gaze is naturally drawn to the dazzling array of colours and the richness of the traditional attire.

Amid this ocean of cultures, I realize how privileged I am to witness such moments. The diversity of the tribes is captivating. They share stories, ancient rituals, and proudly express their identities in a celebration of unity rarely seen elsewhere.

The trip ends with a deep sense of gratitude—gratitude towards Papua New Guinea for welcoming me so warmly into this unique cultural mosaic, and gratitude towards my friends, who made this experience truly unforgettable.

With a member of the Huli tribe, from the Southern Highlands province

Our stay in Goroka is a powerful reminder of the richness of Papua New Guinea’s cultural diversity and the importance of celebrating and preserving these ancestral traditions. Papua New Guinea is a mosaic of cultures—a young and proud nation that continues to write its story while honouring its past.