New Ireland,
a little piece of paradise!
New Ireland
Mysterious and enchanting
A Ribbon of Culture and Nature
New Ireland Province, located in the northeast of Papua New Guinea, is a long and narrow island forming part of the Bismarck Archipelago. Stretching 360 kilometers in length but rarely more than 40 kilometers wide, the province offers an exceptional variety of landscapes, from dense tropical forests and pristine beaches to vibrant coral reefs and rolling inland hills. Its capital, Kavieng, is known for its laid-back atmosphere and access to some of the country’s most spectacular marine ecosystems, making it a haven for divers, surfers, and nature lovers alike.
New Ireland is also rich in cultural heritage: traditional malagan ceremonies—intricate ritual displays involving masks, totems, and storytelling—remain central to local identity. The Boluminski Highway, running along the east coast, is a historical legacy of German colonial times, named after administrator Franz Boluminski, who oversaw its construction in the early 20th century. Today, it connects remote villages and opens up a window into the island’s daily life and traditions. Whether it's paddling through crystal-clear waters, exploring ancestral customs, or meeting the warm and welcoming communities, New Ireland offers an unforgettable blend of authenticity, history, and natural beauty.
A New Year in a Timeless Place
What better way to start 2024—a year of expected changes and new directions—than by returning to a place that had long sparked my curiosity: New Ireland. After hearing so much about this unique province, I finally set foot on its shores in early January.
Our base for the week was the Nusa Island Retreat, a serene eco-lodge located on Little Nusa Island, just across the bay from Kavieng. Built using traditional New Ireland techniques and local hardwoods, the bungalows immediately struck us with their elegance and harmony with nature. As we approached by boat, the calm turquoise waters, the sound of the breeze in the palms, and the sight of stilted cabins above the sea created an overwhelming sense of peace—and yes, we all let out a heartfelt “whaou!” without hesitation.
The days passed between gentle snorkeling sessions, reading in hammocks, and encounters with islanders whose kindness and calm were infectious. There was no urgency, just the quiet rhythm of island life and the privilege of feeling present, together. This first week of the year, far from the noise and demands of our daily routines, gave us clarity and renewed energy—precious gifts we didn’t expect, but gratefully received.
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Snorkeling
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Diving
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Traditional canoe
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Swimming
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Walking
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Boat trip
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Historical tour
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Cycling tour
Our stay in New Ireland was an extraordinary experience, thanks in large part to our time at Nusa Island Retreat on Little Nusa Island. This eco-lodge truly checked every box for the perfect getaway: bungalows perched above the sea, exotic animals roaming freely, and sustainable yet comfortable constructions—including composting toilets.
Each day, we were amazed by the natural beauty of the Balgai Bay islands. On our first night, unable to sleep, I had the privilege of witnessing a breathtaking sunrise, which I captured in a time-lapse video.
The resort, a haven for surfers of all kinds, organized all of our excursions, allowing us to fully relax. We began our exploration with a snorkeling session at the truly paradisiacal Nago Beach. The following day, we were taken to discover moving World War II relics lying just thirty meters beneath the surface—two Japanese aircraft, preserved in the depths. Later, we dove into crystal-clear waters that offered incredible visibility of the vibrant marine life.
Another day, we crossed the sea channel in a traditional canoe, steered by my son Etienne, to reach Big Nusa Island. There, a young boy guided us on a short hike through pristine jungle to uncover a Japanese bunker and, nearby, an anti-aircraft gun abandoned for more than 80 years amid lush vegetation.
Finally, on our last day, we had the joy of cycling along the beautiful eastern coast of New Ireland, stopping in local villages to meet the residents and discover their way of life—a heartwarming and enriching encounter.
Stilt bungalows
Delicious buffet of meat and fish
every evening
Family friendly
resort
Stunning spots for
diving and snorkeling
Bike ride with a visit to a bunker,
meeting the villagers,
and discovering lush nature
Historical ruins
An Unforgettable Stay at Nusa Retreat:
A Secluded Paradise in the Heart of Nature
We were completely enchanted by our stay at Nusa Retreat, a true favorite for several reasons. Located on an island near Kavieng, but far enough to offer absolute tranquility, this place is a peaceful haven easily accessible in less than 30 minutes by boat. The island becomes a secluded and picturesque refuge, perfect for relaxation.
The warm welcome from the owners, as well as the Australian couple managing the resort's operations, was one of the highlights of our experience. Their kindness and dedication made us feel at home from the moment we arrived.
Our bungalow, perched on stilts with a stunning view of the sea, was the perfect spot to unwind. Every morning, we admired the sunrise from our hammock while observing the beautiful Papuan hornbills. Though sometimes a bit intrusive, these wild birds added a magical touch to our peaceful moments.
The well-stocked bar and the evening buffet, with its delicious local dishes, were also a treat for the taste buds. Each dinner was a new culinary discovery, full of authentic flavors that delighted our senses.
In addition to relaxation, all of our excursions and activities were perfectly organized by the Australian couple, who also serve as the resort's travel agency. Their expertise and attention to detail made every activity not only enjoyable but also perfectly tailored to our expectations.
In summary, Nusa Retreat provided us with an unforgettable experience. If you're looking for a relaxing and authentic stay in an idyllic setting, we highly recommend it.
An Adventure to Remember at Nusa Retreat:
Snorkeling, WWII Relics, and Crystal-Clear Waters
One of the resort's staff members took us by boat to a secluded, stunning beach where we had the chance to explore the underwater world during a snorkeling session. The diversity of corals and small fish we encountered was simply extraordinary.
On another day, we were driven to the heart of Balgai Bay to admire two Japanese World War II planes, still recognizable despite spending years underwater. I even had the opportunity to sit in the pilot's seat, which gave me a strangely fascinating feeling.
Next, we explored another dive site behind Big Nusa Island, where the water was incredibly clear—something I had never seen before. Diving in these crystal-clear waters was a truly unique experience, allowing us to appreciate the beauty of the underwater world in all its splendor.
Crédit photo:
Don Silcock
Crédit photo: Wikimedia Commons / CC BY-SA 4.0
An Unforgettable Journey on Big Nusa Island:
A Walk Through History and Nature
We were fortunate enough to experience something truly unforgettable during a walk on Big Nusa Island, guided by a local child from the village who spontaneously offered to accompany us. This young guide led us along a small hiking trail through dense, lush vegetation, providing a true immersion in the jungle.
In less than an hour, we discovered two remnants of the Pacific War hidden deep in the jungle: a bunker and a Japanese anti-aircraft gun. The presence of these historical relics added a unique dimension to our exploration, reminding us of the turbulent past of this region.
The trail also took us along a truly stunning coastline, offering breathtaking panoramic views. We were particularly captivated by a beautiful beach, where the contrast between the white sand and the crystal-clear water created a strikingly picturesque scene.
Cycling Through New Ireland:
A Journey of Freedom and Discovery
Before even arriving in New Ireland, we had heard that it was the only place where we could ride a bike (aside from Port Moresby) and that a proper cycling trail awaited us. We were not disappointed. The resort rented us two bikes, allowing us to explore the small forest paths.
Accompanied by a staff member, we set off to discover the villages dotted along the coastal road of New Ireland, following the ocean to the east, and to visit a Japanese bunker overtaken by vegetation.
For us, it was a moment of pure enjoyment, freedom, and intense connection, while our legs were thrilled to stretch out and pedal along the beautiful landscape.